An old tank or an oversized T-shirt is the cheapest practice fabric there is, and with a pair of scissors it can turn into something you actually want to wear. The ideas below run from simple crops to open backs, braided details, fringe, lacing and geometric cutouts. My kit is short: a prewashed knit shirt, sharp fabric scissors, washable chalk, a ruler, a piece of cardboard and a tank that already fits you as a template. Mark every line before you cut, work flat, and take off less than you think. You can always trim more; you can't put fabric back. Each idea comes with an outfit to wear it with.

Why Jersey Can Be Cut Without Hemming
T-shirts and tanks are knitted, not woven. A woven fabric is made of crossing threads, and a cut edge frays. A knit is made of interlocking loops, so a cut edge mostly stays put. That's why every idea below can be left raw. It also explains the two things that surprise beginners.
- Cut edges curl. Single jersey rolls at any cut, and edges cut across the shirt roll differently from those cut up and down it. A gentle stretch sets the roll and makes it look deliberate.
- It stretches most across the width. Strips cut across the shirt pull into round cords easily, which is why braids, ladders and weaves are cut horizontally. Strips cut lengthwise stay flatter.
- Openings grow. A hole cut flat on the table is smaller than it will look on your body, because the knit stretches around you. Always cut small and try it on.
Which shirts cut best
Medium-weight cotton or cotton with a little stretch is the easiest. Very thin, worn jersey tears at corners and sags around big openings. Ribbed tanks hold a straight edge well but curl strongly, and polyester performance tops often melt or fray rather than roll, so test a corner first. Wash and dry the shirt before cutting so any shrinkage happens before you measure.
1. Classic Scoop Neck DIY Tank Top

The scoop neck is where I'd start, because it teaches the most important habit: cut one layer at a time. Lay the shirt flat and cut the sleeves off just inside the seams. Chalk a shallow curve for the front neckline, keeping the back higher. Then lift the front layer and cut it alone, so the back doesn't go down with it. A gentle tug along the edge makes the jersey roll in neatly. Wear it with straight-leg jeans, white sneakers and a button-down tied at the waist. Keep the armholes close to the old seams for more coverage.
2. Cropped Raw Hem DIY Tank Top

A raw crop changes only the length and keeps the fit you already like at the top. Try the tank on and mark the hem, then add about an inch, because a cut jersey edge rolls up and the top ends shorter than the line. Measure evenly from the original hem all the way round, draw a straight guide and cut slowly through both layers. A gentle stretch gives a soft rolled finish. High-waisted wide-leg jeans and platform sneakers balance the shorter length. Save the cut-off band; it becomes ties or braids later.
3. Deep Armhole DIY Muscle Tank

A muscle tank needs an oversized shirt; on a fitted one, deep armholes just look stretched. Cut from just below each underarm up toward the shoulder, leaving the shoulder strip wide enough to hold the weight. Then fold the shirt in half lengthwise and use the first armhole as a template for the second, which is the simplest way to keep both sides even. The holes look bigger once the edges curl, so stop early and try it on. Wear it over a contrasting sports bra with bike shorts, crew socks and chunky sneakers.
4. Racerback DIY Tank Top

The racerback is practical for workouts because it keeps straps off your shoulders. Remove the sleeves and shape the front armholes first. On the back, draw curves that angle inward from the bottom of each armhole toward the upper center. Cut one side, fold the shirt in half and trace for the other. The strip left between the shoulder blades carries the whole back, so I keep it at least two fingers wide. A fitted sports layer underneath makes it secure. Pair it with high-rise leggings, trainers and a cap.
5. T-Back DIY Tank Top

A T-back is a narrower version of the racerback. Take off the sleeves and widen the armholes gradually. On the back, mark two long curves running toward a narrow vertical strip under the collar. Cut outside the chalk line so there's room to refine. It should read clearly as a T without the center strip feeling flimsy; on light jersey, a few hand stitches along that strip stop it stretching. Oversized graphic tees suit this cut because the front print stays whole. Wear it with relaxed cargos, retro sneakers and a small backpack.
6. Halter Neck DIY Tank Top

A halter cut moves all the weight onto the strap around your neck, so the fabric there has to be strong. Mark diagonal lines from the front underarms toward the neckline and leave a generous band round the neck. On the back, cut across below the shoulder blades and keep two upper straps to wrap or tie. Test the fit before shortening anything. Worn, thin jersey makes ties that stretch out in an afternoon; fold and stitch the edges, or use saved strips from a thicker shirt. Linen trousers and flat sandals suit the finished top.
7. One Shoulder DIY Tank Top

A one-shoulder cut works best on a fitted tank with some body. Put it on and mark where the diagonal should start and finish. Lay it flat and join the marks with a smooth line from one side of the neck to the opposite underarm, then cut through both layers. Keep the remaining strap wide, or it will slide off. A raw edge suits casual jersey; a narrow stitched hem looks more finished. Lift your arms before the final cut to check what shows. Tailored high-waisted shorts and low block heels let the angle lead.
8. V-Neck DIY Tank Top

Turning a crew neck into a V is a quick change, and the point of the V is the weak spot. Fold the front in half lengthwise and mark the depth at the center fold. Draw a line from there to each side of the neckline near the shoulder, and cut the front layer only. Open it up and even out the two sides. A shallow V is fine for every day; a deeper one wants a camisole. Stretch the edges gently, but never pull the point itself, or it distorts. A midi skirt, white sneakers and a denim jacket finish it.
9. Square Neck DIY Tank Top

A square neckline looks structured, but only on a tank with enough weight to hold a straight edge. Use a ruler and chalk to mark a line across the upper chest, then two short verticals up to the neckline. Round the inside corners slightly; sharp knit corners stretch and tear. Cut the front only and check the depth before adjusting. If the edge curls too much, fold it in and secure it with a narrow stretch stitch or fusible tape made for knits. Pleated trousers, loafers and a slim belt make a neat outfit.
10. High Neck DIY Tank Top

A high-neck tank keeps the original collar and changes only the shoulders. Cut the sleeves away along curves that angle in toward the neck, so the shoulders narrow while the front stays covered. Fold the shirt in half to match both sides before cutting the second. Leave a little fabric between the collar and the armhole; cutting right up against the collar stitching weakens it and the shoulder won't lie flat. A long denim skirt, slim sneakers and sunglasses make a clean city outfit.
11. Front Keyhole DIY Tank Top

A keyhole adds a detail without changing the neckline. Try the tank on and mark the center point. Take it off and draw a narrow oval, teardrop or long diamond below the collar. Snip a tiny hole first and enlarge it slowly, checking placement each time. Leave a solid band between the keyhole and the collar so the neckline stays stable. On a stretchy knit, a row of hand stitches around the opening stops it growing. A small ring or fabric tie across it adds structure. Pair with cropped trousers and a light blazer.
12. Back Keyhole DIY Tank Top

A back keyhole surprises people when you turn around. Draw a centered oval or teardrop between the shoulder blades, clear of the neckline and side seams. Slide cardboard inside, or pin the front out of the way, then make a small slit and follow the outline. Keep it modest; a wide keyhole on jersey stretches into a sag by the end of the day. A strip of scrap fabric tied across the top makes a pretty closure. Wear it with paper-bag shorts, flat sandals and a contrasting camisole underneath.
13. Ladder Back DIY Tank Top

Ladder backs are mostly about spacing. Put cardboard inside so the scissors can't reach the front, then mark horizontal lines across the back with equal gaps, stopping well short of the side seams. Cut the short top lines first. Stretch each strip gently and it rolls into a narrow cord. Leave wider bands near the bottom, where you bend. In my experience, five evenly spaced slits look better than twelve crammed ones. A fitted contrasting layer underneath shows off the pattern; wear it with joggers and high-tops.
14. Slashed Back DIY Tank Top

A slashed back should look a little irregular on purpose, but planned irregular, not random. Sketch angled slashes of slightly different lengths, put a mat or cardboard inside and keep every line away from the side seams. After cutting, stretch each one so the edges roll. Avoid areas that feel tight when you reach or bend; slashes there keep opening. For a quieter version, keep a few short slashes between the shoulder blades only. Wear it over a fitted sports tank with denim cutoffs and canvas sneakers.
15. Heart Back Cutout DIY Tank Top

A heart on the back is the most popular cutout I see, and the template makes or breaks it. Print or draw a symmetrical heart template, then place it high enough to stay clear of the lower back and side seams. Slide cardboard in, trace with chalk and cut in short snips around the curves. Keep it medium-sized; a heart that spans most of the back sags on light jersey. A bright camisole underneath makes the shape pop. An A-line denim skirt and clean sneakers finish it.
16. Diamond Back Cutout DIY Tank Top

A diamond cutout looks clean and geometric. Fold a square of paper diagonally to get a balanced template, then trace it on the upper back with the top point below the collar and the side points well away from the armholes. Cardboard inside, small snips at each corner. Round the four points a touch, since sharp knit corners stretch first, and add a couple of stitches at each to hold the shape. A bright underlayer makes it bold; a matching one keeps it subtle. Black jeans and white sneakers suit the shape.
17. Star Cutout DIY Tank Top

A star is the trickiest of the shaped cutouts, because the inner corners are where jersey tears. Use a simple five-point paper template, trace it, slide cardboard between the layers and cut from the center out toward each point, stopping just short of the line. Then refine. Keep it compact and skip very thin shirts. A few small stitches at every inner corner make it last through washing. One well-placed star looks neater than a cluster. Pair it with utility pants, lace-up sneakers and a contrast camisole.
18. Crescent Back Cutout DIY Tank Top

A crescent across the upper back is softer than a geometric shape. Make the template by drawing two overlapping circles on paper and cutting out the curve between them. Position it sideways under the neckline with both tips well away from the armholes. Cardboard inside, then cut. Take the inner curve slowly; too much off leaves a thin strip above the opening that rolls and sags. Pull-on linen shorts, sporty sandals and a pale camisole underneath make an easy summer outfit.
19. Side Cutout DIY Tank Top

Side cutouts can pull a boxy tank in at the waist. Try it on and mark the top and bottom of each opening. Lay it flat, draw matching curves or triangles along both sides, cut one, then fold the tank and trace the other so they match. Keep the openings above your waistband and don't remove much of the side seam, which holds the shape together; stop just short of it, or stitch the top and bottom points. Wear it over a fitted tank with high-rise jeans and a cropped overshirt.
20. Lace Up Side DIY Tank Top

Lace-up sides add adjustable shaping. Cut a narrow section out of each side seam, from below the armhole to above the hem, then punch evenly spaced holes along both edges. Keep the holes at least half an inch from the edge, or they stretch into one big gap. On thin tanks, I whip-stitch around each hole first. Thread a jersey strip, ribbon or soft cord through in a crisscross and knot it firmly. Tighten both sides evenly. A fitted camisole underneath keeps it practical with cargo shorts and platforms.
21. Side Tie DIY Tank Top

Side ties are the easiest way to shorten and shape an oversized tank without measuring much. Cut a slit up from each side of the hem, stopping below the point where you want the knot. Split the front and back flaps into narrower tails if you'd like smaller knots. Try it on and tie loosely, adjusting until the hem sits level. Long tails knot more easily, so start conservatively and trim after. High-waisted denim shorts and an open shirt finish it.
22. Front Tie DIY Tank Top

A front-tie crop turns a long shirt into a fitted one without losing the whole hem. Cut the back straight across at your chosen length. On the front, cut up from the center of the hem to make two long sections, then angle their outer edges upward so each becomes a tie. Knot them at your natural waist. Keep the ties wide, because thin jersey tails curl into cords. If the shirt has a graphic, plan the angles so the print sits above the knot. Wide high-rise trousers and flat sandals balance it.
23. Twist Front DIY Tank Top

A twist-front cut gives a gathered center with almost no sewing. Crop the back of an oversized tank, leaving the front several inches longer. Cut a short slit up the center front hem to make two wide panels, twist them once around each other and secure with a knot or a few hidden stitches. Keep the slit short; a long one shows more of what's underneath than you'd expect. I always test the twist over a base layer before trimming. Mom jeans and low-top sneakers suit it.
24. Knotted Hem DIY Tank Top

A knotted hem is the quickest fix for a tank that's too long and too loose. Cut a short slit at one side or the center front, split the fabric into two sturdy tails and tie them once. If the tank is very long, crop the back slightly to match the raised front. Make the tails wider than seems necessary, because jersey rolls narrower after cutting. A side knot looks casual and off-center; a center knot looks sportier. Leggings, sneakers and a zip jacket make it gym-ready.
25. Fringe Hem DIY Tank Top

Fringe is easiest when you mark everything first. Draw a horizontal stopping line several inches above the hem, then mark each cut along the hem with a ruler so the strips come out equal. Cut up to the line and stretch each strip into a cord. Very thin strips snap and tangle, so I keep them about a finger wide. Knot neighbouring strands for texture, or leave them loose, and trim the ends level afterward. Bike shorts and simple sneakers keep the outfit from looking busy.
26. Beaded Fringe DIY Tank Top

Beaded fringe adds color and a nice swing. Cut medium-width strips along the hem and stretch them, then thread one or two light beads onto chosen strands and tie a firm knot below each. Large-hole beads with smooth edges won't cut into the jersey. Spread the beads evenly; one heavy section pulls the hem down on that side. Wash it by hand or in a mesh bag, since beads and fringe catch in a machine drum. Cropped jeans and flat sandals let the fringe lead.
27. Braided Back DIY Tank Top

A braided back looks complicated and isn't. Cut the upper back of a loose tank into three long vertical sections, leaving the neckline and lower back whole. Stretch them into cords, braid without pulling tight and secure the end with stitches or a saved fabric tie. Before fixing it permanently, roll your shoulders; a tight braid restricts movement. Soft jersey with stretch works best, and very worn fabric is too weak for narrow braids. Wear it over a contrast sports layer with tapered joggers.
28. Braided Strap DIY Tank Top

Braided straps replace plain shoulders with a decorative finish. Cut each shoulder panel into three equal strips, stopping before the body of the tank. Stretch them lightly, braid toward the top of the shoulder and secure with several small stitches, making sure both straps finish at the same length. Braiding shortens the strap, which raises the armholes, so try it on before the last stitches. If it's too tight, add length with extra strips rather than stretching the neckline. Linen trousers and slides suit it.
29. Wrapped Racerback DIY Tank Top

A wrapped racerback gathers a standard racerback into a narrow column. After cutting the curved back armholes, take a long strip from the old hem or sleeve, pinch the two back sections together and wrap the strip around them several times. Tie or stitch it inside. Don't wrap so tight that the neckline drags against your throat. A broad, neat wrap is more comfortable and lasts longer than a thin, tight cord. Patterned leggings and trainers suit it.
30. Bow Back DIY Tank Top

A bow back pairs an opening with a soft tie. Cut a wide horizontal opening across the upper or middle back, leaving the side seams alone. Make two long tails from the center edges, or attach strips saved from the hem, and tie a loose bow that lies flat. Hand-stitch any attached tails, because retying every wear pulls at the join. Keep the tails wide enough to hold a shape. A heavy bow drags the back down, so shorten the strips gradually if it does. Wear it with a flowing maxi skirt and flat sandals.
31. Open Back DIY Tank Top

An open back is the biggest change you can make while keeping a favorite graphic front intact. Turn the shirt over and mark a large rounded opening from below the shoulders to above the waist, keeping wide borders by the armholes and hem. Cut small, try on, then enlarge. If the shoulders start sliding outward, a horizontal tie across the top of the opening holds them in. Medium-weight cotton jersey copes; very light jersey sags once that much back is gone. Wear it over a fitted top with drawstring pants.
32. Cross Strap Back DIY Tank Top

A cross-strap back keeps two diagonal strips while the center opens. Sketch it first: two wide straps running from opposite shoulders toward the lower back. Cut away the surrounding sections, keeping the strips in one piece where you can. If that's not possible, cut separate strips from the hem and stitch them at four points. Make the straps at least an inch wide before stretching; they curl narrower. Check that the X lies flat and doesn't pull the armholes back. Cargo pants and chunky sneakers suit it.
33. Cutout Shoulder DIY Tank Top

Shoulder cutouts add a small opening without changing the length or coverage. Mark matching ovals on top of each shoulder, keeping fabric between them and the neckline and armholes. Put cardboard inside one shoulder and cut with short snips, then use the removed piece as the template for the other side. Keep the ovals small, because the remaining shoulder carries the tank. Rounded shapes are more stable than triangles. A soft cardigan over it lets you choose when the cutouts show.
34. Asymmetrical Hem DIY Tank Top

An asymmetric hem gives an oversized tank a sharper shape. Try it on and mark the short point on one side and a lower point on the other. Lay it flat, join them with a smooth diagonal and cut through both layers, then stretch to roll the edge. Check the back first, because a steep diagonal can look odd from behind. A moderate slope is easier to wear and doesn't flash your waistband when you raise your arms. Slim black jeans and ankle boots balance the loose top.
35. High Low Hem DIY Tank Top

A high-low hem keeps length at the back and lightens the front. Separate the front and back layers near the side seams, then mark a shallow curve on the front and a longer one on the back. Cut each layer on its own so the change in length stays smooth. Hang it up afterward and look at both sides. Round off any sharp corner where front meets back so the hem falls in one curve. Unless the shirt is very oversized, keep the difference modest. Leggings and a longline open shirt work well.
36. Scalloped Hem DIY Tank Top

Scallops look sweet, and only broad ones cut cleanly in jersey. Make a semicircle template from card and trace a row of overlapping curves along the hem. Tiny scallops are hard to cut evenly and roll up out of shape. Press the tank flat before marking, use chalk that contrasts clearly, and cut one layer at a time with sharp scissors. For something subtler, scallop only the front. Cropped chinos, canvas sneakers and a denim jacket keep the outfit neat.
37. V Cut Hem DIY Tank Top

A V-cut hem gives you either two angled front points or one center point, depending on which way you cut. Fold the front in half and draw a diagonal from the side hem down to a lower center point, cutting the front only. For an inverted V, start higher at the center and angle down toward each side. Leave the point broad so it doesn't tear. Try it on after the first cut, since the V deepens when the fabric stretches over the body. High-waisted shorts fill the space under the angle.
38. Double Slit Hem DIY Tank Top

Two hem slits help a fitted or boxy tank hang better over high-rise or fuller bottoms. Mark one slit near each side seam, equal in length, and cut up slowly, stopping above the waist. Leave the edges raw, or stitch across the top of each slit so it doesn't tear further. I place the slits just inside the seam rather than through the thick seam stitching, which is hard to cut straight and unravels. Wide drawstring pants and sandals suit the relaxed drape.
39. Ruched Side DIY Tank Top

Side ruching lets you adjust both length and shape. Make two small holes near the bottom of each side seam, form a narrow channel with stitching or fabric tape, thread a long jersey strip through, gather and tie. Keep the gathering even on both sides, and don't tighten so far that the tank twists. For a no-sew version, cut a row of narrow side slits and weave a strip through them instead. Structured high-waisted jeans balance the soft folds.
40. Corset Lace Front DIY Tank Top

A corset-style front is made with a narrow center opening and crisscross ties. Mark two parallel vertical lines below the neckline with a solid section between them. Cut small, evenly spaced holes along the inside edges, and a short slit between the panels if you want more gap. Reinforce each hole with hand stitches, because pulling the lacing tight over and over stretches them. Lace a soft jersey strip through and tie it, keeping it loose enough for the tank to keep its shape. Wear a fitted camisole under the lacing.
41. Center Front Cutout DIY Tank Top

A narrow center-front opening gives a fitted tank a modern focus. Mark the oval or slit between neckline and upper waist while wearing the tank over a base layer, so you see where it really falls. Then lay it flat, add cardboard and cut smaller than your final shape. Enlarge slowly and keep the ends rounded. Don't cut across printed artwork or thin stretched fabric. One or two ties, rings or stitched bands across the opening keep it under control. A high-waisted midi skirt suits it.
42. Ribcage Slash DIY Tank Top

Ribcage slashes are short horizontal openings down the side. Mark several lines along one or both sides, evenly spaced and away from the side seams. Cardboard in, cut each line, stretch lightly. Making the middle slashes a little longer than the top and bottom ones gives a curved effect. Begin with fewer cuts than you planned, because they open wider once worn. Stop each slit at least an inch from any seam. A fitted contrasting layer underneath, cargo joggers and chunky sneakers suit it.
43. Geometric Grid DIY Tank Top

A grid of small squares or rectangles looks organized only if it's measured. Draw the grid on paper first, leaving wide bridges between openings, then transfer it to the upper back. Cardboard in, cut each shape separately, working from the center outward to keep it balanced. Round the inside corners slightly and stay clear of the neckline, armholes and side seams. Keep the grid small, as too many holes weaken the panel. A bright tank underneath makes the pattern stand out with plain trousers.
44. Leaf Cutout DIY Tank Top

Leaf cutouts give a softer, natural pattern. Make a small paper leaf with rounded tips and trace several along the upper back or one side, turning each a little to suggest a vine. Leave comfortable gaps between them. Cardboard in, short controlled snips. Pointed leaf tips tear and curl in jersey, which is why I keep them rounded. Three to five leaves look more refined than a crowded design, especially on a light tank. A green, cream or neutral layer underneath suits linen pants and woven sandals.
45. Sunburst Back DIY Tank Top

A sunburst is a set of short slits radiating from a point. Mark a small circle between the shoulder blades and draw straight rays outward, stopping well before the neckline and armholes. Cut only the rays and leave the center whole. Stretch each slit lightly. Space them widely so the fabric between stays strong. Start short and lengthen a few rays to vary the lengths, which gives the design depth. A yellow or contrasting layer underneath shows it off with denim shorts and sneakers.
46. Butterfly Back Cutout DIY Tank Top

A butterfly is pretty, and delicate parts are where it fails. Choose a symmetrical template with broad wings and a sturdy body. Place it between the shoulder blades and upper waist and cut smaller wing openings rather than removing the whole shape, so fabric lines remain around the body. Skip antennae and fine wing markings; jersey can't hold them. Stitch any narrow connecting bits and wash the finished tank gently. A flowing midi skirt and a contrast camisole underneath suit it.
47. Shredded Panel DIY Tank Top

A shredded panel gives fine texture down the center back without opening it entirely. Mark a long rectangle and draw horizontal lines inside it, keeping the top and bottom borders solid. Cut each line without crossing the rectangle's sides, then stretch the strips one by one into cords. Use medium-weight jersey and keep each cord thick enough to survive the wash. Don't yank them. Knot or weave a few together if you'd like a denser pattern. Wear it over a fitted top with distressed jeans.
48. Distressed Edge DIY Tank Top

Distressing makes a newly cut tank look lived-in. Start from a basic crop, muscle tank or scoop neck. Make a few tiny snips around the armholes, neckline or hem, spaced irregularly. Rub the edges with fine sandpaper and stretch so they curl. Go lightly: washing softens and widens every snip. Keep clear of shoulder and side seams, which hold the garment together, and stitch any hole that starts spreading. Boyfriend jeans, canvas high-tops and a utility overshirt suit the look.
49. Layered Contrast DIY Cutout Tank Top

Two tanks layered together let you show off cutouts and stay covered. Pick an outer tank in a neutral or dark shade and a fitted inner tank in a contrasting color. Cut a ladder back, geometric shape, side slashes or one large shape into the outer layer only. Check that both necklines and armholes line up. A few stitches at the shoulders stop the layers shifting. Thin layers prevent bulk. Repeat the inner color in your shoes or bag, and wear it with cropped jeans.
50. Woven Strip DIY Tank Top

A woven strip panel turns parallel cuts into a chain. Mark six to ten horizontal slits across the upper back with even gaps. Cut and stretch, then loop each strip under the one below to form the weave, and secure the last loop with hidden stitches or a short tie. Work top to bottom without pulling hard; tension shortens the whole back. Practice the weave on scraps first, and keep the lowest attachment well above the waist. A fitted contrast layer underneath and utility shorts finish it.
When a Cut Goes Too Far
Everyone overcuts eventually. Most mistakes can be rescued, and the rescue often looks like part of the design.
- Crop too short: wear it as a layer over a longer fitted tank, or pair it only with high-rise bottoms that meet the hem.
- Neckline or armhole too deep: run a row of small hand stitches along the edge and pull it slightly to draw it in, or add a strip across the opening as a tie.
- Cutout too big or sagging: stitch a narrow band of scrap jersey across it, or turn it into a lace-up with a few punched holes and a cord.
- A tear starting at a corner: stop it at once with a few tight stitches across the end of the cut. Left alone, jersey runs keep going.
- Uneven sides: cut the longer side to match, then fold the shirt in half to check before any further trimming.
Wash finished tanks inside out on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag, or by hand if they have fringe, braids or beads. Skip the dryer. Heat sets the curled edges harder and makes narrow cords shrink and twist. Lay them flat to dry and reshape the cutouts while they're damp.
Practice on a Shirt You Won't Miss
Every one of these projects starts the same way: patient marking, cautious cuts and a shirt you won't mind experimenting on. A cropped hem, a scoop neck or side ties make good first projects. Braids, weaves, lacing and shaped cutouts come next, once you've seen how jersey stretches and rolls. Mark everything, protect the layer you're not cutting and try the tank on between big cuts. Then dress it with plain bottoms, comfortable shoes and simple layers, and adjust the coverage to suit your own comfort.
































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