Bandeau tops are back, but not in the flimsy tube form most of us remember. The versions worth buying now are cut from thicker knits, lined cotton and structured fabric, and they get worn with wide trousers, relaxed denim, linen shirts and long skirts rather than saved for a party. When I style one, the first question is always balance: a tight band on top wants something with room in it below, and an open shirt, blazer or cardigan gives you a layer to pull on when the setting changes. The second question is grip. A good band has firm elastic, a silicone strip inside the top edge, a lining you can't see through and, for many of us, built-in cups. Below are fifty ways I'd put one together, from beach-day shorts to black tailoring for dinner.
What Actually Holds a Strapless Band in Place
A bandeau has no straps, so everything depends on the band gripping your ribcage. When I check one in a fitting room, I look at three details before the colour or the price.
- Silicone gripper tape along the inside of the top edge. It is the thin rubbery strip that stops the band sliding on skin. Without it, even a tight band creeps down when you raise your arms.
- Wide elastic or a lined double layer. A narrow elastic edge rolls over and digs in. A wide, flat edge spreads the pressure and stays put.
- Light boning or seams at the sides on structured bands. These stop the fabric collapsing into folds and keep the top edge straight.
Size by your ribcage measurement, not your usual top size. The band should feel snug when you breathe in, but it shouldn't leave a deep red line after an hour. Then do the arms test I give everyone: lift both arms above your head and twist from side to side. If the band slips more than a finger's width, choose the next size down or a different style.
1. Black Bandeau Top With Wide Leg Jeans
Wide-leg jeans are the easiest place to start, because the volume in the leg does the balancing for you. I go high-rise when someone wants most of the stomach covered and mid-rise when the torso needs to look longer. Dark denim reads sharper; light wash is for daytime. A black leather belt matters more than it looks, since it stops the jeans from swallowing a small top. Platforms, clean sneakers or pointed flats all work, and an oversized button-down carried over the arm saves you when the restaurant air conditioning kicks in.
2. White Bandeau Top With Black Trousers
White on top and black below is the most polished formula here, but only if the white stays white. Hold the bandeau up to a window before you buy it: a single layer of white jersey will show every seam of your bra and the skin underneath, so look for double lining. High-waisted wide trousers with the hem brushing the shoe give the long line. Slingbacks keep it dressy, flat leather sandals relax it, and an oversized black blazer worn open turns it into something you could wear to a nice dinner or a rooftop drinks invitation.
3. Bandeau Top With Linen Pants
Linen trousers are the hot-weather answer, and I'd pick them before shorts on any day over thirty degrees because the loose leg lets air move. Start with a fitted bandeau in a neutral and decide on the waistband: drawstring for the beach, a tailored band for lunch. Slides and a woven tote suit the texture. Pale linen is often thinner than it looks, so check for a partial lining. And don't fight the creases; linen wrinkles within the hour, and a quick steam before you leave is all it needs.
4. Bandeau Top With Maxi Skirt
With a maxi skirt, the waistband decides how much midriff shows, so I set the skirt at the natural waist first and then choose a band that leaves the gap you're happy with. Pattern goes on one piece only: plain band with a floral skirt, or a printed band over a solid skirt. Flat sandals for daytime, low block heels for evening. If you're petite, a straighter skirt with less fabric won't drown you; taller and curvier women can carry a full gathered skirt easily. A short cardigan is the soft extra layer.
5. Bandeau Top With Denim Shorts
Denim shorts are the obvious summer pairing, and the obvious mistake is wearing a tiny band with tiny tight shorts. One of the two needs some room. High-rise cutoffs cover more and mark the waist; longer, looser shorts feel more current. For walking all day, I'd only wear a ribbed or double-layer band, because a single thin layer creeps down every time you lift your arms. White sneakers, a cap and a striped shirt worn open make it practical for sightseeing.
6. Bandeau Top With Cargo Pants
Cargo pants have pockets, flaps and bulk at the thigh, so the top has to be the quiet part. A smooth, close-fitting band in black, white, olive or grey does that. Pick cargos with a relaxed leg rather than the most oversized cut you can find, or the whole lower half turns into luggage. Chunky sneakers keep it sporty; a heeled sandal is the twist that makes it look deliberate. A small shoulder bag, not a pocketed utility one, and a cropped bomber if it cools down.
7. Bandeau Top With Oversized Blazer
This is the combination I suggest most to anyone nervous about a strapless top. An oversized blazer covers the shoulders and back, and the bandeau just reads as a neckline. The fit check is at the shoulder: the jacket can be big in the body, but the shoulder seam shouldn't hang halfway to your elbow. Push the sleeves up once to show the wrist. Pair it with tailored trousers or straight jeans, loafers or low heels, and repeat the bandeau colour in your shoes or bag so the pieces connect.
8. Bandeau Top With Open Button Down Shirt
If a bandeau on its own feels too bare, put an open button-down over it and you're done. A white shirt, a blue stripe or soft linen all work. The shirt can hang loose, go into the waistband on one side, or tie at the front, though I'd tie it loosely so it doesn't drag the band down with it. Straight jeans, linen shorts or relaxed trousers underneath. My one rule: let the band differ from the shirt in colour or texture, otherwise it looks like you forgot to button up.
9. Bandeau Top With Tailored Shorts
Tailored shorts with front pleats and a flat waistband make a bandeau look grown up. Choose the length you'll actually be comfortable sitting in, since pleated shorts ride up more than you expect. A bandeau in the same fabric gives you a set; a contrasting one gives you two pieces you'll reuse separately. Loafers or slingback flats keep it smart, and a blazer on top turns it into a summer suit. Skip a belt if the shorts already have a strong waistband, because two waist details just compete. I'd keep the palette to navy, olive, cream or a muted pastel.
10. Bandeau Top With Mini Skirt
A bandeau top and mini skirt is two short, fitted pieces, which is exactly why it needs thought. I always put structure in the skirt: A-line denim, a tailored mini or a utility style with some body to it, sitting high so there's a clear break at the waist. Then add a layer with movement, like an oversized shirt or a light cardigan. Ballet flats and slim sneakers keep it daytime; knee boots carry it into autumn. If you find yourself tugging the band up every ten minutes, it's the wrong band for this outfit.
11. Bandeau Top With Satin Midi Skirt
Satin skirts move beautifully, but satin on satin turns into one big shine. I put a matte band on top instead: jersey, crepe or a structured cotton. The skirt should be cut on the bias so it skims rather than clings, and that means smooth, no-line underwear, because bias satin shows every edge. Strappy heels or pointed mules suit the movement. Cream with champagne is soft; black with an emerald or sapphire skirt is the dramatic version. Keep any necklace fine so the straight strapless edge stays clean.
12. Bandeau Top With Leather Pants
Leather trousers look harder than most people want for a night out, and a simple band softens them. I'd choose a straight or relaxed leather leg over skin-tight, partly for comfort, since leather doesn't breathe, and partly so the fitted top is the only close-fitting piece. All black is sleek. Cream or burgundy on top adds contrast. Pointed heels lengthen the leg; ankle boots for cooler nights. Faux leather gives the same look with less weight. If the trousers shine, keep the band matte.
13. Bandeau Top With Parachute Pants
Parachute pants have so much volume that a small strapless top is almost the only thing that balances them. Stick to black, stone, grey or olive, or let a bright band be the single shot of colour. Use the ankle toggles: pulling them in shows your shoe and stops the hem dragging. Chunky sneakers or sporty sandals, a little crossbody, and a cropped windbreaker for the evening. I'd hold back on oversized accessories here; the trousers are already the big thing in the outfit.
14. Bandeau Top With Bermuda Shorts
Bermuda shorts are my pick for anyone who wants a bandeau without showing much leg. Look for tailored shorts that stop near the knee and sit flat at the waist. A fitted band in a matching neutral keeps the top half neat, and a relaxed blazer on top gives you an almost three-piece effect. Loafers and ballet flats make it polished. Petite women should go for a slightly shorter inseam and a low-cut shoe that shows the top of the foot, because a knee-length short plus a covered foot cuts the leg in two.
15. Bandeau Top With Pleated Trousers
Pleated trousers give a bandeau a grown-up base. I look for a high waist and a fluid fabric that drops straight from the hip rather than puffing out at the pleats. A longer band that meets the waistband almost looks like a bodysuit, which is a good option if you don't want skin showing. Mules, pointed flats or clean leather sneakers all suit it. One thing I always check: the waistband has to lie flat under the band, so skip tie belts or chunky buckles that create a bump right where the two pieces meet.
16. Bandeau Top With Flared Jeans
Flares and a bandeau have a seventies edge that still works now. The jeans should fit at the hip and start flaring at the knee. A ribbed band keeps it casual; a satin or corset-style band dresses it up. Wear platforms or heeled boots, and get the jeans hemmed for those exact shoes. A flare that pools on the floor drags, frays and makes the whole outfit look sloppy, and it's the most common mistake I see with this cut.
17. Bandeau Top With Straight Leg Jeans
Straight-leg jeans go with almost any bandeau because they don't fight it. Medium wash with white for the day, dark denim with a black structured band for the evening. A leather belt finishes the waistline. From there it's just shoes: flats, loafers, kitten heels or slim sneakers depending on the plan. I'd add one thing with presence, like sculptural earrings or bold sunglasses, and leave the rest plain. An oversized cardigan covers you in spring and early autumn.
18. Bandeau Top With Low Rise Jeans
Low-rise jeans and a bandeau is the most early-2000s outfit on this list, and the way to keep it from looking like a costume is a relaxed fit. Very tight low-rise jeans with a tiny band shows a lot of stomach and leaves nowhere to hide. Relaxed jeans sitting on the hip, a longer band, and an open blazer or shirt bring it forward. Sit down in it before you leave the house: low-rise gapes at the back when you bend, and that tells you quickly whether this cut is for you.
19. Bandeau Top With White Jeans
White jeans with a dark or striped band is one of the easiest summer outfits to get right. The thing to check is the jeans, not the top: thin white denim shows pocket bags, seams and underwear, so buy a heavy, opaque pair. High-rise straight or wide legs suit most figures. Tan sandals or white sneakers, a natural-texture bag and gold jewellery. For a softer version, cream jeans with an ivory band and brown leather accessories. A light shirt in the bag handles cold air conditioning indoors.
20. Bandeau Top With Denim Maxi Skirt
A denim maxi covers almost everything below the waist, so the band can be the main event without the outfit feeling bare. Look for a slit at the front or back, because denim doesn't stretch and you can't walk in a straight denim maxi without one. The waistband should sit snug without gaping at the back. A plain white, black or striped band, flat sandals or low sneakers and a leather bag. If the skirt has cargo pockets or heavy seams, keep everything else simple. It carries well from late spring right into early autumn.
21. Bandeau Top With Cargo Skirt
A cargo skirt brings the utility look in a slightly softer shape than cargo pants. Pair a black, white or khaki band with a midi or maxi that has real pockets and a walking slit, cut loose enough that it doesn't cling at the thigh. Sporty sandals or chunky sneakers suit it; an ankle boot pushes it more fashion. I keep all the metal the same colour, zips, earrings and bag hardware, because cargo pieces have a lot of hardware and mixed metals make it look busy. A cropped bomber on top if you need one.
22. Bandeau Top With Wrap Skirt
Wrap skirts adjust to your waist on the day, which makes them very easy to wear with a fitted band. What I check is overlap: sit down in it and take a few long steps, and if the front flaps open, it's too narrow for you. A plain band with a printed skirt, or a matching top for a set. Flat strappy sandals and a woven bag. Keep accessories quiet so the side tie reads as the detail. Light wrap fabric catches the breeze, so on a windy beach day I'd choose a heavier cotton.
23. Bandeau Top With Crochet Skirt
Crochet skirts are all texture, so a smooth band on top gives the eye a rest. Make sure the skirt is lined; open crochet with nothing under it is see-through in sunlight. White, cream, brown or black work best on top. I'd stop at one crochet piece and choose a structured woven bag rather than adding crochet accessories, which quickly looks like a craft stall. If the weave is very open, wear a longer band and a full slip underneath. Tonal colours tie the textures together.
24. Bandeau Top With Tiered Maxi Skirt
A tiered maxi skirt adds movement under a sleek band, but tiers can add a lot of bulk. The ones I'd choose start at the natural waist and keep the first tier narrow, so the volume starts lower on the leg rather than at the hip. Plain band with a printed skirt or the reverse. Flat sandals and a medium tote for daytime. A slim belt sharpens the waist, and a short cardigan covers the shoulders. Keep the bag modest; the skirt already takes up a lot of room in the picture.
25. Bandeau Top With Matching Maxi Skirt
A matching band and maxi skirt gives you the ease of a dress with two pieces you can split up later. Matching colour runs from top to toe, which makes you look taller. I look for a skirt that sits high and a band long enough that only a narrow strip of skin shows. Minimal heels or flat sandals depending on the fabric. A bag in a contrasting neutral stops the set looking too matched. Afterwards, the band goes with jeans and the skirt goes with a T-shirt, which is the real value of buying a set.
26. Bandeau Top With Matching Pants
Matching pants turn a band into a full outfit with no thought at all, which I love for travel. Linen, knit or crepe sets are the comfortable ones; just make sure the top fabric is thick enough to stay put. Wide legs feel dramatic, straight legs quieter. Keep shoes streamlined. With a bold print, all accessories go solid; with a plain neutral set, add interest through texture or one colourful bag. A blazer in the same fabric makes it a three-piece suit for a dressier day.
27. Bandeau Top With Linen Shorts
Linen shorts and a band are about as light as dressing gets. Go for high-rise shorts with a soft elastic, tie or tailored waist and a longer inseam, which feels relaxed rather than bare. Contrast works well: white linen with a black, olive or rust band. Linen can be sheer in strong light, so check in a sunny window and wear skin-tone underwear. For a day of walking, I'd only wear a band with a wide elastic edge. Narrow elastic rolls over and digs in by lunchtime.
28. Bandeau Top With Knit Pants
Knit pants and a matching band are basically loungewear that you can wear outdoors, and the fabric is what makes or breaks it. Thin knit shows every line and sags at the knee after an hour. A compact rib holds its shape and stays opaque. Wide high-waisted legs balance the fitted top. Clean sneakers or slides, a structured bag for contrast against all that softness. Before buying, I sit and stand a few times in the fitting room: good knit springs back, poor knit stays baggy where you sat.
29. Bandeau Top With Joggers
Joggers and a band look relaxed but planned, as long as the joggers are neat ones: clean waistband, not too much bulk, tapered or wide leg. A ribbed band in a matching or toning colour, an oversized zip hoodie or bomber, and streamlined sneakers. It's a good travel-day outfit. Just don't mistake a fashion band for a workout bra; most offer no real support for running or jumping. A double-lined band with a firm hem covers better and stays where it should.
30. Bandeau Top With Track Pants
Track pants with side stripes against a clean strapless top is a deliberate high-low clash. Keep the band plain so the stripes stay the only sporty detail. Slim retro sneakers make it casual; kitten heels are the more surprising version, and the one I'd pick for an evening. Repeat one colour from the stripe in your bag or shoes. The trap is adding too much gym gear: a cap, a sports bag and running shoes all at once and it just looks like you came from a workout.
31. Bandeau Top With Blazer And Jeans
A blazer over a band with jeans is a quick way to make denim feel dressed. The open jacket frames the strapless neckline and covers the shoulders and back. Pick a band in a colour close to the jacket for a calm look, or contrast it for something sharper. Pointed flats or loafers, a structured bag, and small hoops are enough, since the lapels already frame your face. Petite frames do best with a blazer that ends at the hip; long blazers suit taller women.
32. Bandeau Top With Suit Trousers
A band can stand in for the camisole under a suit, giving a clean straight neckline. Choose a longer, structured band; a narrow one under tailoring looks like you lost your top. High-waisted suit trousers, the jacket worn open, and pumps or slingbacks. Monochrome black, navy or taupe lengthens. If the suit is oversized, the band must fit closely or the whole look loses shape. I'd be honest about the setting: this is for a party or a creative workplace, not a conservative office.
33. Bandeau Top With Capri Pants
Capri pants and a bandeau have a neat, retro shape. The length is everything: a capri that stops just below the widest part of the calf shortens the leg, so I aim for the hem to finish where the calf starts narrowing towards the ankle. Choose a high-waisted, smooth-hip pair. A structured cotton band, ballet flats or slingbacks that show the ankle, and narrow sunglasses. Black capris with a white band is the classic; pastels feel lighter.
34. Bandeau Top With Balloon Pants
Balloon pants are full through the leg and gathered at the ankle, which is a lot of volume. The band has to be the plain, close counterweight. Cotton, poplin or linen-blend balloons hold the shape best. Wear slim sandals or slides that add no bulk at the foot. An open linen shirt is a second loose layer but keeps the waist visible. When the pants are very full, I keep everything else small and neat, or the outfit loses its shape entirely.
35. Bandeau Top With Printed Pants
Printed pants let a plain band become a full outfit. The quickest way to make them connect is to pull one colour out of the print for the top. Wide, straight or soft flared legs all work if the waist sits flat. Keep shoes and bag solid. I wouldn't add a second print unless you love maximalist dressing. Print scale changes the mood: small ditsy prints read quiet, while big graphic ones become the whole outfit.
36. Striped Bandeau Top With White Pants
A striped band with white pants has an easy seaside feel. Stripe direction does real work: horizontal stripes widen the bust a little, which is welcome on a small chest and less so on a full one, where vertical or diagonal stripes sit better. High-rise white trousers or jeans, tan sandals or espadrilles, a woven bag and gold jewellery. Check that the white pants are opaque. For cover, a plain navy or pale blue shirt, never a second stripe.
37. Floral Bandeau Top With Denim
Denim grounds a floral band and makes it everyday. Straight jeans, relaxed shorts or a denim midi, depending on the weather. Take one colour from the flowers for your shoes or bag. A shirt in a different denim wash avoids looking like a uniform. If the band has ruching, ties or a large flower print, I'd skip ripped or heavily distressed denim. Two busy pieces will fight each other.
38. Polka Dot Bandeau Top With Black Skirt
Polka dots and black is a classic pairing that always works. A high-waisted midi, maxi or structured mini in black, with the smooth waistband linking it to the dotted top. Ballet flats or slingbacks keep it feminine. A black or red bag. One more print is one too many; let the dots be the only pattern. A cardigan softens the bare shoulders, and a cropped blazer makes it sharper for evening.
39. Red Bandeau Top With Blue Jeans
Red with blue jeans is strong and simple. Dark denim looks sharper; faded denim is the relaxed summer version. Straight or wide cuts suit the fitted band. If bright red near your face feels loud, a deeper cherry, brick or burgundy is much easier to wear and flatters more skin tones. A compact black bag anchors the colour, and white sneakers or black sandals finish it. Keep makeup restrained so the top stays the focus.
40. Brown Bandeau Top With Cream Trousers
Chocolate and cream is a softer contrast than black and white, and it suits warm and olive skin especially well. A brown band with high-waisted cream trousers in linen, twill or fluid suiting, then tan sandals or chocolate mules. Gold earrings, a cognac or cream bag. A tonal palette can look flat, so I mix textures: ribbed knit top, smooth leather shoes, airy linen trousers. Check that the cream trousers are lined, because pale suiting fabric shows pockets and seams.
41. White Bandeau Top With Beige Maxi Skirt
A white bandeau and beige maxi skirt is a soft, easy neutral pairing. Linen and poplin give the skirt movement; twill gives a crisper outline. A double-lined white band is essential here so it stays opaque against the warmer skirt. Tan flat sandals, a woven bag and tortoiseshell sunglasses. The proportion rule I use: a full skirt wants a close band, while a straight skirt can take a slightly longer or draped top.
42. Black Bandeau Top With White Maxi Skirt
Black above and white below is the sharpest contrast in this list, and the strapless edge gets noticed. That means the band has to sit smoothly with no rolling or gaping, because any wobble shows. A lined white skirt with enough width to walk in, black flat sandals or metallic heels, a structured black bag. It looks great outdoors in bright sunlight, where the contrast is clean and crisp.
43. Denim Bandeau Top With Matching Jeans
Denim on denim with a band and jeans is a strong coordinated look. Matching washes read as a set; a dark band with lighter jeans separates the two. Keep the jeans wide or relaxed, since tight denim plus a tight denim band looks stiff. A bag in red, black or cream breaks up the blue. Denim bands need flexible seams and a lined back, because unlined denim edges rub under the arms over a day.
44. Satin Bandeau Top With Tailored Pants
A satin band with tailored pants is a strong alternative to a dress for an evening event. Satin is slippery, so the band needs a structured lining and ideally silicone grip inside the top edge. Matte, high-waisted trousers keep the outfit from being all shine. Pointed pumps or delicate heels and a small clutch. Satin creases badly and shows water marks, so steam it on low and keep perfume and drinks away from the fabric.
45. Sequin Bandeau Top With Black Trousers
Sequins need a plain partner, and black tailored trousers are the obvious one. Straight or wide legs with a smooth high waistband. Black heels continue the line; a matte or satin bag adds texture without more sparkle. No jewellery beyond studs, because the top is already the accessory. The lining matters most: sequins stitched onto unlined fabric scratch the skin under the arms, and their weight pulls a poorly fitted band down over an evening.
46. Leather Bandeau Top With Wide Leg Pants
A leather band has structure and texture, so I pair it with soft, fluid wide-leg trousers. All black is sleek; brown leather with cream pants is warmer. Pointed heels or mules, and a matte bag so the outfit isn't covered in shine. Skip a heavy necklace that fights the band. Leather doesn't breathe, so look for a soft lining and flexible seams. A stiff, unlined leather band digs in at the ribs within an hour.
47. Crochet Bandeau Top With Linen Pants
Crochet bands and linen pants feel handmade and relaxed. Choose a lined crochet top, because an unlined open stitch shows your skin and bra in daylight. High-waisted linen trousers in white, beige, olive or brown, espadrilles or leather slides, and a structured straw bag. Wood or shell jewellery suits the materials; just keep it small so it doesn't turn costume-like. If the crochet stitch is elaborate, keep everything else plain.
48. Ruched Bandeau Top With Midi Skirt
Ruching adds softness to a strapless shape, and it's also forgiving, since the gathers hide small lumps where the band meets the ribs. Pair it with a smooth midi skirt in satin, poplin or cotton so there's only one textured piece. Slingbacks or heeled sandals and fine earrings. If the band has a central tie, bow, or twist, skip the necklace and let that detail lead. I check two things before buying: the ruching should lie flat rather than bunch, and the elastic should hold without leaving a red mark.
49. Long Bandeau Top With High Waisted Pants
A long bandeau is the answer for anyone who likes the strapless neckline but doesn't want to show their stomach. With high-waisted pants, the two pieces nearly meet and it looks almost like a jumpsuit. Tailored trousers for polish, linen or cotton wide legs for casual. Heels for full-length trousers, flats for cropped. A band with light boning or a wide elastic hem stays put much better than a plain tube, and that confidence changes how you carry the whole outfit.
50. Bandeau Top With Sheer Shirt And Trousers
A sheer shirt over a band covers the arms but keeps the strapless shape visible underneath. Organza, mesh or chiffon, worn open or loosely buttoned. High-waisted tailored trousers ground the transparency. A band the same colour as the shirt is subtle; contrast makes the layering obvious. Since everything under a sheer layer shows, I'd wear skin-tone underwear and no visible bra straps. If the shirt is embroidered, keep the trousers and accessories simple.
Bigger Busts, Smaller Busts and the Strapless Question
Bust size changes which bandeau will work more than any styling choice, so I'd shop for it differently depending on where you fall.
If you're full-busted
A thin stretch tube flattens the chest and then slides down under the weight. Look for bands with built-in moulded cups, a deeper front and boning, or wear a longline strapless bra under a bandeau with an opaque lining. A longline bra spreads support down the ribs instead of relying on the top edge. Pair it with an open shirt or blazer when you'll be moving around a lot, so you're not adjusting all evening.
If you're small-busted
Small busts can wear the simplest bands, but there's less shape for the fabric to hold, so gaping at the top edge is the problem. Removable pads give the fabric something to sit against, and ruched or twist-front bands add shape without padding. Horizontal stripes and bows across the front help too.
Heat Ruins Bandeau Elastic Faster Than Wearing It
The elastic is what makes a bandeau work, and it's also the first part to go. Hot washes and the tumble dryer break down the elastic fibres, and a band that came out of the dryer a few times will grip noticeably less. Wash it cold, inside out and in a mesh bag, and dry it flat in the shade. Don't hang it by the top edge while wet, since the weight stretches the elastic. Rinse after swimming or sunscreen days too, because chlorine and oils weaken the rubber. Store bands folded flat rather than rolled tight.
A Plain Black Band Earns Its Drawer Space First
Every outfit in this list works for the same reason: a fitted strapless top balanced by something with room or structure below. High-rise trousers, relaxed jeans, midi skirts and linen pants give the proportion, and a blazer, button-down or cardigan lets you adjust the cover to the room you're walking into. Fit matters as much as styling. A firm band, real grip and an opaque lining decide whether you'll enjoy wearing it or spend the evening pulling it up. If I were starting from nothing, I'd buy a black or neutral band first and pair it with things already in the wardrobe, then move on to sets, prints, crochet or satin once I knew which shape felt right.
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