Bob Mackie built his name on showstopping stage costumes, and that sense of theater carries into his tops: saturated prints, fluid fabrics and appliqué or beading that reads as wearable art. Secondhand you'll find floral blouses, graphic tops, silk button-ups, tunics, crew-necks and embellished pieces, though colors and sizes come and go quickly. As a designer, what I notice first is that these tops are meant to be the whole point of an outfit. Everything else should be quiet and well cut. Tailored trousers make them polished, denim makes them relaxed, and simple shoes keep the artwork from fighting with anything. The twenty outfits below cover work, lunches, travel and evenings, each built around one of these tops.
Reading a Vintage Top Before You Buy It
Most Bob Mackie tops you'll come across now are secondhand, and many of the wearable-art pieces were sold through home-shopping television years ago. Sizing from that time doesn't line up with today's labels, and older fabrics age in ways new ones haven't yet. When I assess a piece, I go in this order.
- Ask for flat measurements: armpit to armpit, shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and length from the high shoulder. Compare them with a top you already own that fits.
- Check the fabric tag. Silk, rayon and polyester each drape and wash differently, and rayon in particular can shrink if washed warm.
- Look at the underarms and collar in photos for yellowing or sweat marks, which rarely come out of old silk.
- On embellished pieces, ask whether any sequins, beads or appliqué are loose or missing. A few can be stitched back; large bare patches can't be hidden.
- Look for shoulder pads. Many tops from that era have them, and they change the fit a lot.
1. Bob Mackie Floral V-Neck Top With White Pants
A floral V-neck is the easiest piece to start with, because the neckline already does the framing. Saturated flowers on a dark or soft background look sharpest against straight-leg white pants. I'd pick pants with a flat front or a smooth stretch waistband, since pleats or bulky pockets show through a soft top. Beige loafers suit daytime; low block heels dress it up. A cream or tan bag, or one in a color pulled from the print, ties it together, with small gold earrings and a fine bracelet. Wear it loose for ease or try a partial tuck if you want the waist to show.
2. Bob Mackie Silk Floral Blouse With Black Trousers
Silk moves with you and catches light differently in every fold, which makes a printed silk blouse come alive in a way polyester rarely does. Wear a Bob Mackie silk floral blouse with straight or gently tapered black trousers, and the dark base lets every color in the print show. Pointed black flats keep it comfortable; kitten heels make it a little more formal. A compact black or burgundy bag, pearl studs or a slim watch are enough. Tuck the front of an oversized blouse to give it a waist. Vintage silk needs care: check the label and look for thin or splitting areas before you wash, steam or wear it.
3. Bob Mackie Graphic Top With Wide-Leg Jeans
What keeps an artistic graphic top from looking like a costume? Plain, relaxed denim. High-rise wide-leg jeans in a clean medium or dark wash give the top room. I'd avoid heavy fading or rips, because the top already brings all the detail the outfit can hold. White leather sneakers make it casual and black ankle boots sharpen it. A crossbody that matches the shoes and one bold accessory, such as silver hoops, is plenty. Push long sleeves up to lighten the shape. If the graphic runs across the hem, leave it out; a shorter top can be tucked in with a slim leather belt.
4. Bob Mackie Sequin Top With Black Jeans
Sequins look most modern when everything around them is plain. A Bob Mackie sequin top with black straight-leg jeans takes the shine down a notch, and the dark color runs the leg into one long line. Choose denim with little fading. Pointed flats, sleek loafers or low ankle boots suit different evenings, and a black suede or smooth leather shoulder bag sits well next to the texture. Skip the statement necklace, which catches on sequins and competes with them, and wear small earrings. A plain black camisole under a sheer or open neckline adds coverage. I'd wear it to dinners, the theater and birthdays.
5. Bob Mackie Printed Button-Up Top With Straight Jeans
A printed button-up is the most everyday piece in this list. Wear it with straight-leg blue jeans that fit smoothly through the waist and hip. Leave it loose for coverage or tuck it fully into high-rise denim for a cleaner line. Tan loafers, white sneakers or low brown ankle boots all suit it, with a structured leather tote for errands. The collar and button placket already frame the face, so studs and a slim watch are enough jewelry. Worn partly open over a solid camisole, the shirt makes two vertical lines down the body, which lengthens the torso and makes a loud print easier to wear.
6. Bob Mackie Animal Print Blouse With Brown Pants
Animal print is often paired with black by default, but brown is kinder and looks richer. Pair the blouse with chocolate, camel or espresso straight-leg trousers, choosing a shade from the quieter part of the pattern so it looks planned. Dark brown loafers and a matching belt give a polished base, and a tan bag with small gold accessories suits the warm palette. Tuck or belt a voluminous blouse so the outline doesn't turn boxy. One rule I don't break: one animal print per outfit. A leopard shoe under a leopard blouse turns it into a theme. It suits the office, lunches and gallery visits.
7. Bob Mackie Paisley Top With Dark Wash Jeans
Paisley usually mixes deep blues, reds, greens and golds, and dark-wash denim picks up the blue without competing. Choose a paisley top with a scoop, crew or V-neck and slim-straight or bootcut jeans in an even dark wash, which keeps the intricate pattern readable. Cognac loafers or brown ankle boots suit the season, and a saddle-style crossbody adds vintage character without tipping into dated. I keep all the metal one finish, earrings, watch and belt buckle, so the busy print stays the only busy thing. If the pattern overwhelms you, put a solid cardigan over it and let the center panel show.
8. Bob Mackie Tunic Top With Slim Black Pants
A tunic covers the hips, so the bottom half has to be narrow, or the whole outfit looks shapeless. Wear a printed tunic with slim black ankle pants in a thick stretch fabric that won't show lines. Pointed flats or low wedges lengthen the leg. A medium bag with a defined shape keeps the look from going soft. Long earrings echo the vertical line but should stay simpler than the print. Check in a mirror that the tunic falls straight rather than clinging across the hips; a fabric with a little weight hangs better. If it has side slits, make sure the pants are fully opaque. Good for travel and casual offices.
9. Bob Mackie Crew-Neck Top With Pleated Skirt
A crew-neck sits close to the face, which makes it a good match for a soft skirt and short earrings. Pair the printed top with a solid midi skirt with narrow pleats or a gentle A-line, in a color that appears in the print, such as navy, burgundy, forest green or black. Tuck the top in so the middle is defined; a printed top hanging over a pleated skirt hides both. Low slingbacks or ballet flats and a compact top-handle bag finish it. Push long sleeves just above the wrist to show a bracelet. It's comfortable to move in and right for luncheons and cultural events.
10. Bob Mackie Scoop-Neck Top With Cream Trousers
Cream trousers lighten a vivid scoop-neck and make it feel right for warm weather. Add tailored cream pants with a straight or slightly wide leg to the printed top. Nude flats, woven loafers or low block-heel sandals keep the palette light, with a beige bag or one in a muted shade from the print. A scoop neckline leaves space at the collarbone, so a short pendant or fine layered chains fill it nicely. A smooth camisole underneath adds coverage without changing the line. Light pants show everything, so check they're opaque and wear smooth, no-line underwear. I'd wear it to daytime celebrations and resort dinners.
11. Bob Mackie Mock-Neck Blouse With Midi Skirt
A mock-neck covers the throat, so it's an autumn piece by nature. Pair a long-sleeve printed mock-neck blouse with a suede-look, knit or ponte midi skirt in a neutral from the print, cut with a gentle flare. Knee-high boots that disappear under the hem make one continuous line from waist to floor, which is very flattering. A shoulder bag in the same color family as the boots keeps it calm. The neckline already decorates the face, so skip the necklace and wear medium hoops. Tuck the hem or add a slim belt for a waist, and throw a tailored coat over it outdoors.
12. Bob Mackie Cowl-Neck Top With Velvet Pants
A cowl neck drapes in soft folds, and velvet has a deep pile that absorbs light, so the two textures play off each other well. Choose a Bob Mackie silk or jersey cowl-neck top with black or deep navy velvet trousers in a straight or softly wide leg. Pointed pumps or embellished flats in a matching dark shade finish the line. Carry a small satin or smooth leather bag, not another heavy texture. Drop earrings lead the eye to the drape, while a necklace tends to get lost inside the folds. If both pieces are loose, tuck the front or add a narrow belt. Right for winter dinners and performances.
13. Bob Mackie Striped Top With Navy Pants
Stripes from a designer like this usually have something unexpected, like color placement or an unusual neckline, which is what makes them worth wearing. Pair the striped top with tailored navy ankle pants. White loafers or navy flats look fresh by day; metallic low heels dress it up. Pick a white, red or tan bag, taking just one accent from the top. Keep every other pattern out so the stripes stay clean. Horizontal stripes widen; an open navy jacket on top adds two vertical lines that offset that. A small pendant and studs are enough. Good for casual offices and travel days.
14. Bob Mackie Bateau-Neck Top With Pencil Skirt
A bateau neckline runs almost straight from shoulder to shoulder, giving a broad, graceful line across the shoulders, which suits narrow or sloping shoulders especially well. Pair it with a solid knee-length or midi pencil skirt in black, navy or burgundy. Tuck the top in and smooth the extra fabric flat, or the skirt won't hang cleanly over the hip. Pointed flats, kitten heels or classic pumps in the skirt's color finish it, with a structured bag. Skip the necklace; that wide neckline is already the feature. Pearl, crystal or metal studs are enough. A narrow belt adds definition for presentations and formal lunches.
15. Bob Mackie Embroidered Shirt With Bootcut Jeans
Detailed embroidery adds weight as well as texture, and dark bootcut jeans balance that weight. The slight flare at the hem evens out heavy stitching on the shoulders or chest. Heeled or pointed-toe ankle boots let the jeans fall smoothly over the foot. A simple leather belt and medium shoulder bag finish it. Leave heavy jewelry at home, since it competes with the threadwork and can catch on raised stitches; small hoops or one cuff are enough. If the embroidery runs to the hem, wear it untucked. Otherwise a clean tuck shows the waist and gives the vintage shirt a more current line.
16. Bob Mackie Lace Top With Satin Pants
A lace top with satin pants in one color family relies on texture, not contrast. Pair a lace-pattern top with fluid satin trousers in black, navy, champagne or a close shade. Flat-front wide-leg pants fall smoothly under a detailed top; pleats add bulk you don't need. Pointed slingbacks and a compact structured bag finish it. Choose a camisole that matches the lace closely, so the pattern shows and the skin underneath doesn't. Simple drop earrings bring movement near the face. Skip lace shoes and ornate necklaces, which tip it into too much. I'd choose it for formal dinners and anniversaries when you'd rather not wear a dress.
17. Bob Mackie Short-Sleeve Top With Cropped Pants
In hot weather, a short-sleeve printed top with solid cropped pants ending just above the ankle is the most comfortable outfit here. White, navy, black or khaki pants calm a busy print. Loafers, refined sandals or low sneakers all suit it. A woven tote adds summer texture; a structured crossbody looks more polished. If the sleeves are loose and wide, keep the pants tailored, because loose on loose turns boxy fast. A half-tuck gives shape without losing comfort. Sunglasses, studs and a light watch finish it for sightseeing and outdoor markets.
18. Bob Mackie Long-Sleeve Blouse With Leather Pants
Flowing print against smooth leather is a contrast I love for evenings. Wear a long-sleeve printed blouse with black leather or good faux-leather straight-leg pants. Skip skin-tight styles: they fight the blouse's volume and get hot and uncomfortable after an hour. Pointed ankle boots or sleek loafers and a small black bag with little hardware keep it clean. Push the sleeves up to show a watch or cuff. A curved or decorative hem should stay out; a plain hem can be half-tucked. Keep makeup and jewelry simple so the print leads. I'd wear it to concerts and city dinners.
19. Bob Mackie Halter Top With Palazzo Pants
A halter puts the shoulders on show, so the fit at the armhole decides whether it looks expensive or awkward. Pair a printed halter with high-waisted black or ivory palazzo pants whose waistband sits smooth and secure under a tucked top. Low platform sandals or block heels give enough height that the wide hems don't drag. A structured clutch or small shoulder bag keeps the outline clean. Skip the necklace and wear long earrings or a cuff. A cropped jacket or light wrap covers you in cold rooms. Check the neckline and armholes from the side and back before you leave; gaping there is the most common fit issue.
20. Bob Mackie Vintage Silk Top With Tailored Suit
Putting a vintage silk top under a modern suit makes tailoring feel personal. Choose a Bob Mackie silk top in a floral, abstract or graphic pattern, then add a solid blazer and matching trousers in black, ivory, navy or chocolate. Wear the blazer open so the center of the print shows. Pointed loafers or low pumps and a structured bag finish it. A simple pendant suits an open neckline; studs suit a high collar. Older silk weakens with age and light, so check the seams, buttons, underarms and fabric before wearing it to anything important. It handles appointments, conferences and dinners.
Small Alterations That Modernize the Fit
These tops were often cut boxy, with big shoulders and generous length, which was the style when they were made. A few small changes bring them in line with how clothes fit now, without touching the artwork.
- Remove shoulder pads. They're usually tacked in with a few stitches and come out in minutes. The shoulder softens and the top looks far more current.
- Take in the side seams if the body is wide. A tailor can do this below the underarm without disturbing a front print or appliqué.
- Shorten a long, straight hem so it sits at the hip or can be tucked without bunching. Avoid this if the design runs to the hem.
- Swap tired buttons on a plain button-up, but keep the originals in an envelope in case you want them back.
Cleaning Old Silk and Embellishment Safely
Follow the care label first. When there isn't one, treat the piece as delicate. Hand wash plain silk in cool water with a gentle detergent, roll it in a towel to remove water and dry it flat, away from sun. Sequined and beaded tops are safer spot cleaned or taken to a dry cleaner who handles embellishment, since glued trims can lift in water. Steam from the inside instead of ironing, and store embellished pieces folded with tissue rather than hanging, so the weight doesn't stretch the shoulders.
Let the Artwork Do the Talking
Every outfit here has one clear focal point, and that's the whole method. Floral, graphic, embroidered, silk, lace and sequined tops all become wearable once solid pants, plain skirts and quiet accessories surround them. Watch proportion as well as color: a flowing tunic wants narrow bottoms, and a fitted top can carry wide trousers or a full skirt. When buying secondhand, go by measurements, fabric content, condition and care instructions rather than the size on the label. Then let the top lead and keep everything else in a supporting role.
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